I took a bus from Copacabana, Bolivia to Arequipa Peru via Puno – 9hrs! I was a little bit nervous arriving at night in the dark but it turned out ok.
I really love Arequipa – Ciudad Blanca – The White City as it is called. I was expecting a city full of museums that wouldn’t really appeal to me but the city is beautiful and its so interesting just to walk around the streets.
I walked down to Plaza de Armas which is the centre of the city, its very pretty, every building is made of pillar (white ashlar) and many have a very colonial feel to them. I spent the second part of the morning looking through the Monastery of Santa Catalina, which is over 400 years old and most famous for being the home of Sor Ana de lost Angeles Monteagudo, a nun who is believed to have made predictions and conceded countless miracles. It was an impressive place, coving almost 2 whole blocks of the street and provided a really interesting insight into Peruvian religious beliefs. I enjoyed learning how they lived, cooked and washed (I’ve become very appreciative of today’s conveniences). 30 nun’s still live in the Monastery, ranging in age from 18-90 years old.
In the afternoon I visited Museo Sanctuaries Andinos, home to Juanita ‘ The Beautiful Girl of Ampato’. She is a naturally preserved mummy who was discovered just 11 years ago on 8th Sep, 1995. In Inca times a child would be chosen at a very young age to be ‘offered to the gods’ from as young as 2 or3 yrs of age. The child would be cared for and very well educated until it was time to sacrifice them to the gods. To the family, it was not considered a sacrifice – it was a privilege – a family who had a child that was chosen would be very proud. Most of the children were not peasants they were of a higher class, they believe Juanita was the daughter of a priest. After great festivities and rituals, Juanita would have been put to sleep, by drinking a high alcoholic drink which worked as a sedative, before a precise blow to the head would cause her death. She was then placed in a tomb on the highest peak of the mountain along with other first to the gods. Because she was at such a high altitude, and the freezing conditions, her body was preserved in the ice for approx. 500 years. It wasn’t until the mid 90’s when a neighbouring mountain (volcano) erupted and melted the snow on Ampato that these bodies were discovered. Because they were naturally preserved, scientist’s can tell her sate of health, diet and many things about the way the Inca lived. A really interesting museum and worth the visit.
I spent the rest of the afternoon walking around town, I bought some artwork off a local artist and went to a cafe in Patio del Ekeko for the most amazing chocolate cake I have ever had.
The historic center of Arequipa spans an area of 332 hectares and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its historic heritage, natural scenery and cultural sites make the city a major tourist destination. Its religious, colonial, and republican architectural styles blend European and native characteristics into a unique style called “Escuela Arequipeña”. — Wikipedia
Today I have done absolutely nothing which has been great. I left the hostel around 10am and sat in a cafe on a cute pedestrian street that runs behind the Cathedral where I had a coffee and people watched for a few hours.
I had another wander around the streets and then moved to a rooftop restaurant down the street where I had pasta, a glass of wine and read my book for a few more hours before heading back to the hostel for an afternoon nap.
This evening I am sitting in yet another rooftop restaurant overlooking the beautiful Cathedral & Plaza de Armes which are all lit up with lights, listening to some traditional Peruvian flute players. This city is gorgeous in the daytime but right now it really is stunning!
Tomorrow I leave for Nazca.